Click on one of the topics below for more information on how to save electricity in the home and at work..

Links

Alliance to Save Energy

The Washing Machine

If you are washing in warm or hot water, stop. Use cold water. Unless you are trying to remove grease stains, cold water will get your wash just as clean for a lot less money than hot water. You can reduce energy use by as much as 50 percent by washing in cold water.

If you’re considering buying a new washing machine, check out our TumbleWash program. TumbleWash promotes the horizontal access washing machine, which cuts the water usage by 1/3 and the energy consumption by up to 60 percent if you are using hot water.  A TumbleWash machine is much gentler on your clothes, will get your clothes cleaner and will use less water, detergent and energy.

Look for the Energy Star label while shopping for new appliances and ask about the rebates.

The Refrigerator

Purchasing a second-hand refrigerator may look like a good buy initially, but it is always wise to look at the big picture before making a decision. The big picture is called the life-cycle cost that includes the purchase price and the cost of operating and maintaining the appliance.

The average pre-1990s 18-cubic-foot refrigerator will consume about $1,500 to $2,000 worth of electricity during the course of its 20 year life!  All of that extra consumption will reduce the cash in your pocket and will increase air pollution from generating the electricity. Savings of about 60 percent can be realized by purchasing an ENERGY STAR-labeled refrigerator.  This label simply identifies the most energy efficient appliances. 

Instead of buying a real energy guzzler, it can be cheaper on a monthly basis to purchase a new product that has high efficiency and finance it for two or three years. The savings on the electric bill can offset the monthly finance charge.

The Clothes Dryer

If you’re choosing to dry your clothes with a clothes dryer instead of a clothesline—the most energy efficient method—at least make sure your dryer is working as safely and efficiently as possible.

First and foremost, make sure your dryer exhaust vent is clean. At least once a year, you should disconnect the vent pipe and clean out the lint. While this may only save a small amount on your utility bill, it could prevent your house from burning down. It’s a safety hazard to have a clogged dryer vent.

Plastic dryer vents are a potential fire hazard.  Plastic is a flammable petroleum product and plastic vent pipes have been known to catch on fire from the heat of the dryer. If you are replacing a dryer or just the dryer vent, buy a rigid aluminum pipe vent. It will last indefinitely. It’s much safer and the smooth pipe walls allow for more efficient airflow and provide fewer surfaces on which to catch drier lint.

Never vent a dryer into the house. Claims are made that by attaching a lint trap to the vent, you can safely vent inside. Most houses don’t need the extra moisture in winter, nor does any house need the accompanying pollutants in the dryer exhaust. 

Conserving energy is great for customers as we all know. However, it’s also a great economic development tool. Rather than having Vermont dollars go out-of-state or out-of-country to pay for fuel, they stay in Vermonters' pockets. 

The basic tenet of conservation is to turn things off that are not being used. Wasting is bad for the environment; it's also terrible for the economy. 

BED provides a number of rebates for small items like compact fluorescent lighting all the way up to large commercial construction projects to encourage people to be more energy efficient.. There are programs to update appliances and programs for new construction and retrofits.

Burlington Electric runs the efficiency program for the city of Burlington, while Efficiency Vermont takes care of the rest of the state. Vermont Gas offers cash incentives for high efficiency Natural Gas furnaces and for insulation and other weatherization projects.  Loans are available for selected projects that are designed to produce immediate savings and immediate positive cash flow.

So, whether you are a renter, homeowner or business owner, check with these organizations to see how they can help you save money quickly with efficient products.  While you’re helping your wallet, you’ll be supporting the local economy and the environment.

Use a Clothesline 

Clothes dryers are clearly a modern convenience, but one wonders if they were meant to take the place of a clothesline during the spring, summer and fall months, when the sun can do a better job. Using a clothesline can reduce your utility bill, and—if it is hot and sunny—can dry your clothes as fast or faster than a dryer.

It costs about 50 cents for each dryer load using electricity or propane, and about 25 cents per load for natural gas. The average family does about 10 loads per week, so using a clothesline could save between $10 and $20 per month, more than the cost of a clothesline. Also, there is less wear and tear on the clothes (and, of course, the dryer) when a clothesline is used. Most people love the fresh smell of air-dried clothes, especially sheets.

All corner store owners—and big supermarkets for that matter—can cut their electric costs significantly by making one small change to their coolers.

Often, the doors to these coolers have a heating strip on them to prevent them from fogging up so customers can look inside. These heating strips are costly to use because they add heat to the inside of the cooler, which, of course, is trying to stay cold. For many months of the year—but always during the winter months—these heating strips should be turned off. It simply is not humid enough for the doors to fog. An automatic device can be purchased that would turn the strip on or off depending on the outside humidity. The price of this device would quickly be repaid because of a reduction in the electric bill. Often, small changes like this can make a big difference on a monthly electric bill.

A 1 percent savings for every one degree you turn your thermostat down over an eight-hour period might not sound like much, but it can add up to very big savings on your energy bill. Just think – if you set the thermostat back three degrees over a 24-hour period you’re in for a 9 percent savings right off the bat. If you increase the setback while you’re asleep or while the house is empty your savings will be even greater.

Setback thermostats can accomplish significant energy savings without reducing the comfort of the occupants. There is no sense heating an empty house or having the house as warm when you’re in bed as when you’re up and about. A setback thermostat will turn the heat lower when you want it cooler and raise it when you want it warmer. And unlike a person, it will always remember to do it. A setback thermostat can be a simple mechanical clock type or an extremely sophisticated electronic unit that allows multiple setbacks that reflect a changing weekly schedule. You’ll notice the savings right away.

Heating typically is the largest energy expense in the home. If you haven’t had your heating system inspected – and tested for combustion efficiency – in the last two years, call a qualified inspector now. You want your system as safe and energy efficient as possible. A good inspection can save money and – in some cases – lives. Don’t forget to inspect the chimney. Lots of critters can make their home there in spring and summer. (While we’re on safety make sure your carbon monoxide sensors and smoke alarms are in working order.)

If the heat in your house warms some rooms just fine but never quite makes it to the favorite study or T.V. room, don’t run out and by an electric space heater right away. These heaters can be huge drains on your electric bill, and often there is a better way to solve the problem. Heat from central heating systems should circulate around the house fairly evenly. When this is not happening there are several ways to help solve the problem without adding to your electric bill. First of all, check the obvious. Are your windows and storm windows intact and properly shut – including the basement windows?  Also, check all the doors especially the attic door or hatch. If these check out, it’s time to check the heating system itself. If you have a hot air furnace, be sure that the heat registers and cold air returns are not covered by rugs or furnishings.  Next, try adjusting the hot air supply registers.  If that doesn't do the trick, make sure that the adjustment dampers in the ductwork are set properly. If you don’t have cold air returns in each room, your interior doors should be undercut at least 1” to allow for proper flow out of the room. If these steps don’t produce the desired results, have an experienced heating system technician check the whole system to see if there are problems that need fixing or merely more sophisticated adjustments that are needed.  Sometimes part of the ductwork can have large holes in it or even be separated. Also, remember to clean the furnace air filter regularly to help improve airflow.  

If you have a hot water heating system with modern baseboard radiators, be sure that the airflow dampers (the movable metal flaps) are open sufficiently to allow an air current to naturally flow over the fins in the radiator.  Old cast iron radiators will usually provide ample heat unless the valve is closed or damaged.

Here are some tips on lowering the cost of air conditioners.

If you are planning to buy a new room AC unit or install a central AC system, please give BED’s Energy Services specialists a call at 865-7335 or 865-7337. We can provide you with a number of buying and installation tips, and provide you with a current list of the most energy efficient models available. Always look for the ENERGY STAR label on any home appliance that you are considering purchasing.

Hot water is a major source of energy consumption in our homes and can provide us with an excellent opportunity to reduce our energy bills. Most water is heated by fossil fuels – natural gas, propane and oil - or by electricity.  There are two common types of fossil fuel-fired tanks: stand alone tanks and add-on tanks for boilers. Add-on tanks are about 80 percent efficient as opposed to 60 percent efficient or less for the stand alone tanks. In new construction and when replacing a boiler or stand-alone hot water tank, an add-on tank is usually the best choice. While conventional electric water heaters are about 90 percent efficient, electric resistance heating is usually the most expensive option.  If you heat your water with electricity, be sure to wrap your tank to reduce the heat loss that occurs through the tank walls. For Burlington residents, BED will wrap your electric tank and install free efficient shower heads and faucet aerators.  Otherwise, check with your local hardware store. Cold water clothes washing, low flow shower heads and faucets, and other water saving devices can greatly reduce your bill. 

Do not wrap gas or propane tanks; the wrap may block the air flow to the burner.

Regardless of the heating source, your thermostat should not be set above 120 degrees.  This will eliminate the danger of scalding and reduce heat loss during standby mode when no hot water is being consumed.

While natural gas and propane tanks are cheaper to operate than conventional electric tanks, BED is experimenting with an electric high-efficiency heat pump hot water heater. If this technology works as promised, its operating cost will be in line with the price of natural gas tanks. 

Solar Hot Water

In the right situation solar hot water can be a good long-term energy saver. Solar systems are still expensive to install compared to other traditional options, but solar can be a great hedge against rising energy costs.

Water that is heated by fossil fuels—natural gas, propane and oil—or by electricity can cost about $500 to $1,200 to install depending on size and type. Solar hot water systems cost about $4,000 to $6,000 to install. If the solar panels are ideally sited the system can provide about 60 percent of your annual hot water needs. If you are part of a four-person household heating water with electricity or propane you could save about $375 per year with solar at current prices.

B.E.D.’s SunWise program can help you take a serious look at all your solar options and can offer incentives and financing for customers using electric hot water.

Are you planning to replace those old windows in your home with the expectation of realizing huge savings on your energy bills? Before making such a large investment—especially if your only goal is to reduce your energy bill—consult with an unbiased energy specialist. If you live in Burlington, call Burlington Electric Department; anywhere else in Vermont, call Efficiency Vermont. 

Using proper diagnostic tools and techniques, an energy specialist can determine where the most significant heat loss is occurring. Often times, houses lose much more heat through hidden gaps in the building envelope than through the windows and doors.  Sealing these gaps can result in significant reduction of air infiltration – increasing your comfort and lowering your energy bills. There is no doubt that adding an extra layer of insulation can make a big difference both in comfort and affordability. The energy specialist will also recommend extra insulation, more efficient lighting, improved ventilation and other efficiency and safety items. There are many things to consider in determining the best bang for your buck in making your home more energy efficient.  So, consult with an unbiased energy specialist before reaching for your checkbook. Our only job is to advise, not to sell products.

If you decide to install the insulation yourself, there are a few simple tips that can make a very big difference in the outcome. The most common error made is adding insulation in open attic spaces before first sealing the major air leaks from the house (insulation in open attics does not stop air leakage).  The second error is not insulating the space completely.  Missed areas (like attic hatches or stairwells) and/or gaps and voids in the insulation can greatly reduce the effectiveness.  Also, be very careful, and follow all instructions, when insulating around chimneys and recessed light cans.

Currently the most common insulations are fiberglass, cellulose and various types of foams. Each of these products has its appropriate uses and limitations as well as specific R-value, a measurement that indicates how effective the insulation is. By trapping tiny pockets of air (or gas in the case of some foams) within the insulation material, a barrier is created. It is actually the dead air, and not the insulation itself, that provides the R-value. 

It is important to remember that R-value refers only to the ability of the insulation to reduce heat loss through a material. "Convective" heat loss (air leakage) can take place right through and around some insulation materials when they are poorly installed.

Moisture control, ventilation and safety requirements should be considered when selecting an insulating material. All insulation materials require careful installation to get the desired results.

If excess heat is moving through your roof because of air leakage and/or an uninsulated or poorly insulated attic, it’s not just your monthly energy bill that is feeling the effect. Ice dams can form on your roof because of this heat loss, potentially causing major damage to the roof. Ice dams build up at the cold eaves of the roof.  When melting snow from the roof hits the dam, it is forced back up underneath the roof shingles. The snow is melted rapidly by heated air leaking from the house into the attic space or because of the poor insulation. Proper air sealing and attic insulation not only will reduce your energy bill, it may add several years to your roof—a major money saver for any homeowner or business. 

Winter can be tough enough without the hassle and expense of freezing pipes. Some buildings are much more prone to this than others, and the reason generally is that outside air leaks into the building bathing the pipes with cold air. If you stop the cold air from coming in you will almost always prevent freezing. Holes or cracks in the building foundation or loose basement windows, doors or crawl space hatches are potential problems.  Water pipes in crawl spaces under additions can be particularly problematic when the new section does not tightly meet the old part of the building.  Mortar, expanding spray foam, good caulk, pipe insulation and high quality weather-stripping are the materials that are typically used to solve the problem.

The Burlington area has several weatherization contractors who are expert in locating and sealing air leakage in all types of buildings.  This is a good investment especially if you are using an electric space heater to keep the pipes thawed; these big energy guzzlers can cost about $3.50 each day to run.

The kitchen is a well-used room in most homes and a place where lots of energy can be saved. Here are some tips.

If you follow these tips, your kitchen will become more energy efficient without spending a nickel.

Lighting in any building—but especially a business—can be quite the energy user. 

Changing from regular incandescent bulbs to compact fluorescent bulbs brings about immediate energy savings. These bulbs last about ten times longer than the incandescent bulbs, which means you're not buying replacement bulbs so often, and you're saving on the maintenance cost for changing bulbs. 

These bulbs come in a variety of shapes and wattages. Some can be dimmed, and some used outdoors.  The new compact fluorescent technology now offers "incandescent-like" light quality that can suit almost any setting. You will save as much as  $75 over the life of each compact fluorescent bulb.  BED customers can lease these bulbs through our Smartlight program. Another option available to all Vermonters is to purchase the bulbs and receive an instant rebate at participating stores through the Energy Star Lighting program.

Also keep in mind that there are now even more energy efficient options for most types of lighting than there were even a few years ago.  For example, businesses can save about 30 percent by retrofitting old  fluorescent lighting systems with new technology systems.  The new fluorescent bulbs eliminate flickering and dramatically improve the lighting quality.

Many folks think that leaving office equipment on when it is not being used doesn’t cost more than turning it off and then on again. This is a myth! Like most things that use electricity, the more time it is on the more energy it will use A computer monitor left on all the time costs about $90 a year in electricity. You can cut this cost by 60 to over 90 percent. Some fear that turning it on and off reduces the life of the equipment. Our best information tells us that it does not.

If you have Windows 95 or later and an Energy Star-labeled monitor, you can reduce your energy usage by 96 percent by simply using "sleep mode." Go to "Help" in Windows ’95 and type "energy star monitor." When activated, this feature puts the monitor into a "sleep mode" and uses only 4 watts of power compared to 50 watts with a screen saver or 100 watts with no control. This feature will also increase the life of the monitor.

Depending on the size and age, refrigerators can use anywhere from $65 to $195 per year in electricity. There are a few very simple things that you can do to save energy:

1. Check the "power saver" switch. Many refrigerators have small electric heaters built into the walls to prevent sweating during hot and humid periods. These heaters just make the refrigerators work that much harder. Unless you have noticeable condensation during the hottest part of the summer, keep the switch on the energy saving setting and save about $2.50 per month. 
2. A full freezer will use less energy than a partially full one. Plastic jugs filled with water work great to fill in the empty space.

3. Use an outdoor thermometer to check the temperature inside the refrigerator and freezer. The refrigerator compartment should be between 36F and 38F and the freezer between 0F and 5F. Keeping temperature ranges 10F lower than recommended can increase energy usage by as much as 25 percent. Place the thermometer in the refrigerator before bedtime and then recheck the temperature first thing in the morning. 

Legal Notices and Terms of Use